Travels with Kathryn

Today was the last day of our tour. We drove back to Ashgabat (another bumpy ride) and a quick stop off back in the Russian baazar to buy a magnet (the essential travel souvernier) before retiring to the hotel for a swim, relax and repack. In very sad news, we again FAILED to ride the world’s biggest indoor ferris wheel – oh the disappointment. Oh well.

Interestingly, whilst packing, I was flicking though my passport only to discover that someone in Tukmenistan had made some annotations in it! just a few dates added and ticks, but very odd:

I also had time for some reflection on the last month and I really have had an absolutely amazing time. I have seen vast contrasts between the 3 countries. Kzrygzstan is the country of nature and sweeping scenery, Uzbekistan has the unbelievable architecture and Turkmenistan (and Ashgabat) is not quite like anywhere else I have ever seen. I have been very lucky with my tour group, and in particular my most excellent room mate Diane – thank you for putting up with me for the entire trip, all the property advice and my needs regarding air conditioning! Keep in touch. Intrepid has done me proud again and I was incredibly lucky with my main guides Miko and Ali – they have continued to meet my incredibly high Intrepid guide standards.

So, tonight we are getting picked up at midnight for my 5am flight via Dubai to Baku. I should probably explain why I am flying this route when (anyone who looks as a map can see) that Turkmenistan is straight across the Caspian Sea to Azerbijan. Well, I had 4 (some theoretical) options to get to Baku:

• Overland via Russia – not an option given the current situation in Russia, and even if I had been stupid enough to attempt it I could not get a visa.
• Overland via Iran – as you will have seen from my earlier post, Ashgabat is a mere 8km from the Iranian border so this could have been an option. However, I decided not to as: (i) due to rising political (and in my view anti-woman) tensions; and (ii) I would have needed to pack a particular set of clothes (so as not to offend people with my head, wrists or ankles.
• Across the Caspian Sea – this is possible. I would have needed to hire a local to get me to the port at Turkembashy, wait for a container ship (which could take days and there is nowhere to stay at the port), and then board ship and take x days to the post in Baku which is miles from the actual city. I decided this was too hard and not advisable for a woman travelling on her own.
• Fly via either Istanbul or Dubai – so yes, either flight evolved a huge detour but the detour to Dubai was less far, so that is one I took.

We were all flying (the other via Istanbul) at around the same time to share a transfer. We were accompanied by Ali (bless him) in case there were any last minute problems who also took a final group photo:

So, this is the last entry for Stage 1 (as I have crossed the border) bring on Stage 2!