Travels with Kathryn

So, this is it, the last day. Time to go back to reality and a new job (which I am actually rather excited about – its like I usually like what I do?). However, that is 1.40am tomorrow morning so I have one last day to enjoy.

I slept very well last night (after all that Disney excitement), but was still up relatively early so off I headed to the Yuyuan Gardens. A slight hiccup in that I walked off boldly in completely the wrong direction to the metro, and having walked for 15 minutes to a station I know is about 6 minutes away realised my error. Now what I could have done is walked back on myself, and taken the metro, but I TMaP’d. Taxis/Didi is so cheap that for £1.30 I was collected and dropped right outside the East Gate entrance to the Yuyaun Gardens. This became something of a theme of the day and yes, whilst I am perfectly capable of using metro systems, when it is this hot and taxis are so cheap, sometimes a 10 minute walk to one’s nearest metro station feels like just too much…

Anyway, the gardens were founded by rich officials during the Ming dynasty (1559) and were developing nicely until being severely damaged during the opium wars in 1842. They were damaged yet again during French reprisals for attacks on the French concession by Taiping rebels. However, they have now been fully restored, and on arrival, they seemed very familiar in that I am pretty sure I came here on my last visit. Much has changed in 6 years and whilst the gardens remain unaltered (if much busier than I remember and more carefully walled in) the surrounding Yuyan Baazar and Old Street has been given the Chinese Theme Park update (having been to Disney I now recognise it).

Hidden behind a wall and with no signage in English (obviously this is not somewhere tourists are encouraged) is the Temple of the Town God. This is a Taoist temple (its been a while) orginally dating back to the 15th century, but badly damaged during the cultural revolution and subsequently rebuilt. It was also very much in use by the locals, much like my only other Taoist temple all the way back in Xi’an so maybe this is sign that they are onto something?

It was in the Yuyan Baazar that I had the original crab soup dumpling of deliciousness. Could I find the same place again? Maybe, maybe not. I did try 2 dumplings from 2 places next to each other, but neither were staffed by an army of Grandmas and therefore did not live up to the heights of my recollection. However, I would say dumpling number 3 (eaten off my lap on a step outside the shop) was the best of the 3 I’ve eaten on this trip. I mean, they’re all delicious but can anything live up to a food memory?

The baazar itself is nothing like I remember and is now filled with many many fancy shops – some selling tourist stuff and others selling proper things people might actually want. This is the first place in China where I have been offered fake watches/handbags (by word of mouth and a quick flash of a small card with photos on) and had to be quite dismissive to get them to leave me alone. It’s also the highest concentration of westerners I have seen anywhere on this trip, including in Disney. Definitely a sign to leave!

I took a taxi to the Shanghai Museum, which I was excited to see. However, another day and another museum failure. It turns out (which was not explained on their website or anywhere else I read online!) that a reservation was required, and unfortunately, by 12.10 today, all reservations for the day had gone. I was rather annoyed with myself as I could have easily reserved in advance had I known… I decided that it was ok as the majority of the people coming in and out of the museum were children/youths with what looked like Grandparents i.e. people were being taken on school holiday educational visits. This is the sort of thing one should encourage. I molified myself with a walk around People’s Square and an ice cream, then gave up and retreated to the air conditioning of my hotel room.

I headed out just before sunset and started with a visit to the former British Consulate. This is the oldest building on The Bund and was first built in 1849. That building burned down in 1870 and was replaced by the building we see today in 1873, which at the time was surrounded by a classic English garden. So Shanghai is rather more protective of its British Consultate than Kashgar, or perhaps its just that this building was brought by a fancier hotel chain (its now part of the Peninsula Hotel) and is a much more impresssive building. It took me a little time to work my way through the gates, but it turns out you just needed to walk boldly past the security people, which I did.

Up to the Bund for sunset and to see the last lights of Shanghai. Oh, the hoards of people are all doing the same thing, but understandably as it’s pretty impressive. I am not sure I can think of another city in the world where you can watch it light up along the water… 

I stopped for a final meal on route back to my hotel, which I ordered completely in Chinese and through pointing and acting. An excellent bowl of noodles with stuff in it. What stuff I know not…

I have now returned to my room to pack and shower, and at 10.30pm I shall be heading to the airport. I am actually flying out of Pudong airport (not the same as the airport I took the train into – glad I checked that one!) so it should take me about any hour in a taxi at the vast expense of £16. I am still doing it rather than battling the Metro in my travel clothes as its still hot!

Anyway. I am now at the airport. I was greeted on arrival by 3 sets of closed doors, through the 4th and a barrier with a grumpy lady on it. No eye contact. She eventually opens the barrier and allows me in to scan my luggage. Then check in – in Disney stylee I joined the queue at 23.08pm and out at 23.29 with an aisle seat and waving off the giant yellow rucksack (hopefully to be seen again). Through immigration, then security, quick nip into duty free but as its just gone midnight it’s a limited selection unless you want to buy cigarettes, which I do not, then on train to another part of the airport. I travelled with Air China crew, which boded well, I thought. It’s now 12.15, and I’m sitting at my gate. Putting it out there now, the airport could do with more air conditioning, and I really didn’t need a heated toilet seat… I shall finish this and then hopefully settle in for a good 12.5hr sleep on the plane. A girl can dream (literally, hopefully)…

To reflect on my time in Shanghai. I love it here, and if it was closer, I would come more often. I would absolutely recommend it to any first time visitor to China as a good introduction to the country – English is widely spoken, you are not so much of a novelty (which means less staring/photo requests), and there is loads to see. It’s also a newer city, which means replicas and rebuilding are limited, so what you see is usually real. I am also looking back on my trip as a whole and just reflecting on what an amazing time I have had and how different each region of China is. I’ve said it before, but I’ll say it again, I’m really pleased I added my southern leg (although I’ve been hot and sweaty for duration) as the Uygur Autonomous Region is like being in a Police state (which I suppose China is) and kind of makes you forget that there are good things about China. It’s very much a country on the up, and the amount they can spend (both at home and abroad) on these big infrastructure projects is insane – just taking the number of solar panels, wind farms and new high speed train lines. They can also “do” theme park tourist experience (and I’m not talking about Disney!) like no one else – I’m just kind of hoping that is a phase… But, if the Chinese government is reading this – I love China, I will be back (hopefully with a little more Chinese and certainly more prepared with eSims, apps etc.) and can I have a camel electric car please? Thank you.