Travels with Kathryn

I was expecting the Bay of Kotor to be lovely, and well, it has lived up to its reputation. I mentioned previously how lovely Kotor Old Town is, but now I have spent more time here (and it has stopped raining!). I am going to go on about this some more.

Yesterday, I started (as it was drizzling) by walking along the water’s edge to enjoy a bit of the scenery, see Kotor beach, and as a warm-up before hiking up the mountain…

As the weather had improved, I could no longer put off climbing up the 1350 stairs up St John Hill to an elevation of 260m above sea level. Firstly, I would like to complain that I had to pay €15 for the privilege of this torture, secondly, what was slightly more annoying is that on the way down the ticket office was not manned so it would have been free! Now, to those of you who enjoy hiking (weirdos), this walk/hike may not sound like much, but believe me when I say that this was a challenge. Now, usually I would say I NEARLY DIED, however, as I knew it was a long way/a lot of stairs I took it very, very slowly – helped by the fact that we had occasional rain showers on the way up when I took breaks to shelter from the storm/sit. However, the views are spectacular, and I am rather pleased with myself for making it up there (although by the next afternoon, my legs still ache).

So, the top of the mountain was fortified back when Kotor was part of Illyrian, but the first actual fortress we would mostly recognise today was built in the 6th century by the Byzantines. After the Byzantines lost the terriory, the fortress was left as it was until in 1420 when the Venetians took over Kotor. It was the Venetians who gave the fortress its current structure. It then remained as it was during the variuos wars (including being occupied by the Axis powers during WW2). The fortress and walls were considerably damaged in the 1979 earthquake, so I only hope that some of my exorbitant entrance free is going towards upkeep and maintenance!

It took me considerably less time to come down than go up, and I rewarded myself with a large bowl of prawns and spaghetti, I then retreated to my hotel for a hot shower and much leg stretching. But I do feel I achieved things – hurrah!

According to my plan, today I had intended to make a day trip to Budva. However, having passed through it on my bus from Podgorica to Kotor and thus having had a quick look, I decided the better trip would be to Perast. Perast is just a few km around the bay from Kotor and is just small town, however, due to its Venetian buildings and the 2 small islands just offshore that make it a stop on the tourist route. The town successfully defended the bay (and thus protected Kotor) during the 15th century, and was granted various policital and economic privileges as a result – in particular, the right to guard the Venetian flag, rights of free trade and the blanket forgivenesss to fight pirates in the Adriatic. As a result, the town has a number of fancy houses, so yes, its pretty town, but the main draw for me was the 2 islands – St George which is privately owned and is home to the St George Benedictine Monastary, and Our Lady of the Rocks.

Our Lady of the Rocks is an artificial island (created by sinking old and seized ships) and legend has it that it was made overtime by local seamen who found an icon of the Madonna and Child on a rock in the sea, so every time they safely returned to harbour they laid a rock in the bay. This tradition continues, and every year on 22 July, local residents get in boats and thow rocks to widen the island. The island contains a museum apparently (which I could not find, so may have been closed!) and a 1722 church.

I then had a short walk around the town (which did not take long, let us be honest) and then caught the bus back to Kotor. I should take a moment to heartly recommend the Bay of Kotor for your next summer holiday. As I hope some of the pictures captured is simply stunning, and because it is a bay, the water is crystal clear and without waves. I really think you could have a lovely week pottling around the various towns along the coast interspersed with swims, sitting on the (albiet pebbly) beaches, and the odd hike when you are feeling energetic! You must come.

Tomorrow, I am heading back to Podgorica for a clear day, which I am spending in the spa in the Hilton Hotel (this is my version of backpacking!) before taking the overnight train to Belgrade. Montenegro may be a small country, but it is a beautiful country and deserves far more tourists than it gets! I shall return…