Travels with Kathryn

Today is the Big Day. Its Nadaam day (well, the first Nadaam day). We had a massive lie-in so it was 8am breakfast for an 8.30am departure. Well, even though the hotel had been told (apparently) the timings it was 8.40am before a plate of cold fried eggs, toast and a salad were presented to us. It was not worth the wait…

Also, after all that hot sunshine (you remember me whinging?) we have woken up to torrential rain. Ulaanbaatar gets very little annual rain, and therefore they do not have drains so when there is heavy rain (like overnight and this morning) there is not really anywhere for the water to go.

I was wearing a raincoat and an umbrella, but there were still sections where it was shoe depth.

We are back in the mini bus and were dropped off at Sukhbaatar Square, and then we wadded through some deep water to see the departure of the ceremonial parade of the State Nine White Banners. These are 13th centry “banners” representing the nine nomadic tribes of Mongolia:

• Khalkh – the largest group (central and eastern steppe) making up around 85% of the poulation and considered the direct descendents of Chinggis Khan.
• Kazakh’s – primarily from the Western Bayan-Olgii province and  Turkik-speaking muslim majority. Renowned for their eagle hunting.
• Dorvod – also from the Western area, specifically the Great Lakes Depression.
• Buriad – from Northern Mongolia, with cultural and historial ties to Siberian Buyats and are known for intricate traditional patterns and a distinct dialect.
• Uriankhai – originally mountain herders, largely inhabiting the Altai mountains.
• Darkhad – based in the remote taiga and lake basins near Khovsgol, and known for their deep shamanistic beliefs.
• Tsaatan – a tiny community of nomadic reinderrs living in the far-north.

The banners are made from white (for purity) horsehair, and the largest banner has a flame representing past, present, and future. However, the most impressive part of the parade for me was that the music played (video below) dates back to the 13th century, so you could completely imagine the Mongol Hoard getting down to business while this was playing. I was also proud of my position, as I had been pushed back from the barrier at the main square, but then found myself with a front row spot which I carefully guarded along with a Mongolian couple stood next to me.

We then waded back to the bus (although the rain was easing by this stage) and drove the short distance (2km) to the Central Staduim for the opening ceremony. The Nadaam has been going for over 8 centuries and is the national championship for three manly sports. It is hugely popular, and the vast majority of the people who go to see it are Mongolians – they take the whole family, and often go in national dress. I would also add that when we put our tv on the evening, it was on every channel.

I was not completely sure what to expect, but the opening ceremony was simply amazing. Very much along the lines of an Olympic Opening Ceremony, but with so many performers and maintaining traditional music and dance. There is also so much to see, for example, the central stage would have a performer surrounded by a gazillion dancers, and then there would be horses cantering around the running track, but you’re eye would be drawn to a team of movers (dressed in all blue or all red) edging a teepee (scenery) towards the middle. There was an opening speech from the President of Mongolia, and I did not understand any of it, other than many mentions of Chinggis Khan whose painting presides over the whole event in an almost Godlike way.

A few of my favourite moments included:

• How many people can you fit inside a ger? We were on the side o9f the staduim, so probably missed the front on effect, but means we could see some of the set up. There are two large gers, now I say “large” but the amount of dancers that could fit inside them and change quite complicated ensemble changes they must be actual tardis-ses inside. It was insane.
• Family on a cart – There was a section whereby around the running track there would be a waving family. These are normal people from each area who enter a lottery to be picked. They were having a lovely time.
• Camel carrying a ger – Sections of the show represented the different regions, reindeer and yaks from the north, and camels from the south. One of the camels was transporting the ger.
• Enthusiastic horse riding lady – there was much galloping of horses, sometimes also waving banners. She was going for it.
• Horse gymnasts – we know the Mongolians are pretty confident on horses. For example, every singer paraded around the stadium on horseback after performing (some carrying their instruments). However, there was a team of acrobats who were going backwards, leaping on and off, running alongside, hanging off upside down and then forming a human pyramid on galloping horses. Insane.
• Participation certificates – there was a large group of “extras” who were older, and their job was to represent the Mongolian flag whilst dressed in either all blue or all red. Before the final number, they were all given what looked like participation certificates in plastic wallets.

My only compliant would be the tiny, tiny seats (both in width and leg room). I struggled, and there were a number of broader and taller men I am not sure could actually fit in their seats. Mongolins are regular size humans, so I think they should charge tourists more for the tickets (which can be as cheap as £10) and use the revenue to build a bigger staduim/more seating. However, my squashed in-ness did not detract from the whole thing just meant I could not move once wedged in.

But the show was phenomenal – I even had a moment as people were galloping around carrying the flags of Mongolia where I welled up. I wonder if I am actually Mongolian? There is a bogus study which says that 8% of the world population is, so maybe this includes me. I also cannot recommend it highly enough to people – if you come to Mongolia, you must come for Nadaam.

So, after all that excitement, it was time for a short break to steady the nerves. Firstly, a trip to the restrooms of which there were around 50 cubicles (well done Nadaam Central Staduim builders), and then a lunch of khuushur. For Nadaam, they are circular and more of a thin burger rather than a coarse mince with onion. Delicious.

The Central Staduim was then the location for the third round of the wrestling. I had in my mind that it would be one pair at a time, no, the far side of the pitch just had westlers wrestling away. I am pleased that I had gone to the training camp or else I would have had no idea as to what was happening. I am hoping that when we see the finals tomorrow it will be a single pair wrestling with a zoomed in camera on them.

After watching the wrestling for a while we made our way over to the knucklebone shooting. This is the unofficial fourth manly sport and players sit and flick a knucklebone (which you have learned all about) at a miniscule wooden tile target. As far as I am concerned I think its pretty impossible.

Our final sport of the day was the archery. The archers may have been slightly thwarted by the massive puddle/flooding at the downhill end (where they shoot from), but the majority of the shots still seemed accurate. You are allowed to stand as spectators what I considered to be rather close at the target end, not that anything came close but you’d never get that close anywhere else.

We also watched Daashkaa whose training camp we went to see last week (although I only managed to see him once he put his sunglasses on!). He was doing well and then he came over whilst the group all went a bit fan girlie on him. I think he was embracing it.

By now it was 4.30pm and we decided to call it a day. I did manage to fit in a quick browse of the shops (I am efficient like that), and managed to resist buying a wrestling outfit for the various people I know who have expressed an interest. Only because these may have been made for children as the pants were tiny and made of non-stretchy nylon. Shame.

It took us longer to actually leave the staduim than expected. There was a bit of a crush on trying to get down the stairs on the overpass to where the bus was, at one point a police boy pushed past my going the other way and seemed to not be performing his duties adequately imho. Once on the bus, we did not move. Apparently some dignatary was arriving which means the road was closed, some of the group decided to walk (it was only 2km) but as it was pouring with rain I elected to wait it out. The locals took it very well, there was only the occasional honking, but most people just got out of their cars and were having a chat, eating ice cream, and generally accepting of the wait. We did eventually move off (I think we could describe it as zooming off) and then back to the hotel.

As it was still pouring with rain so we headed to the nearest restaurant Gate 8 serving a selection of Western dishes, although they had sold out of burgers. But I had a delicious homemade lemonade and a giant plate of food described as “chicken fajitas”. The restaurant was full of young Mongolians enjoying the beers and pizza. I may have been the oldest person there…

It has been an amazing day, I would really, really recommend anyone comes for Nadaam. The Opening Ceremony was one of the most amazing spectacles I have ever seen But even with such a spectacle, its wonderful to see a country really hold on to its traditions and celebrate them. A magical day, and more to come tomorrow.