Travels with Kathryn

It has been so long since my last holiday. It has been all of 9 weeks. Therefore, time for another one! Yes, technically I did have a long weekend in Edinburgh, but that is not a “holiday” that is a long weekend and as I was performing with my choir one could even go so far as to claim it was “work”.

Anyway, this is supposedly (or so the title suggests) a post about Botswana so let me crack on with that.

I may be relatively well travelled, but I have never been on safari. I have also never been to the middle of the African continent (just the top – Morocco, and the bottom – South Africa). But actually, the main driving force is that I have never seen an African elephant in real life and I do love an elephant (I can see 5 from my sofa plus a throw with many, many on it). Therefore, this trip is designed to maximise elephants. Did you know that Botswana has the largest population of elephants in the world? There are an estimated 130,000 so I am hoping my odds are looking pretty good. This is also a trip where I shall be accompanied by my old people (Mum and Keith). Now Mum is correctly and fully onboard with the elephant plan, perhaps a hippo (which I agree with, love them – they attack people for pure fun) however, Keith’s priority is wild dogs(!). Yes, of all the animals in Africa this is what he wants to see. I am judging. I may be won over shall I be lucky enough to see them in real life, as although Botswana has one of the largest and most stable populations of endangered African wild dogs in the world, they can still prove rather elusive.

Also, having done copious amounts of research Botswana soon became a clear choice (and not just for the elephants) because Botswana is committed to high value, low density models which carefully restricts overall numbers of tourists, lodge numbers and have a maximum limit of three vehicles at any animal sightings. No self-driving is allowed and only designated park vehicles (with accompanying guides) are allowed in the national parks. This was particularly important having seen footage online, and also my brief experience seeing elephants in Sri Lanka literally surrounded by jeeps. Yes, I want to see the animals, but I also want them to be able to go about their business without me impeding or bothering them too much. Botswana is also home to the Okavango Delta, which is the world’s largest inland delta (which we shall be exploring via a canoe, more on this later) so its more than just savannah and scrub (although I do expect a lot of scrub as we are going in dry season. Oh, and I have managed to a little “nip” over the border into Zimbabwe to see Victoria Falls!

In terms of the actual getting ready to go part, I have unusually booked via a (recommended) safari travel agent who has put together an itinerary which goes something like this (using the Intrepid day numbering method):

• Day 0 – overnight flight from London to Johannesburg. Mum has complained MULTIPLE times that this is her first long haul flight in AGES where she is going to have to slum it in economy. I have told her MULTIPLE times – tough, welcome to travels with Kathryn.
• Day 1 – connecting flight Johannesburg to Maun (technically a “village” in Botswana, but very much a tourism capital as the gateway to the Okavango Delta. Then afternoon to recover (see Mum’s complaints above).
• Day 2 – Light aircraft flight from Maun into the Moremi Game Reserve which has been described as a “remote bush airstrip”. This flight has strict weight limits, and whilst my luggage will be fine (more on this below) I am worried about human limits. Let us all keep our fingers crossed. We will be spending the next 10 nights in a Meru tent (more on this below) before returning to semi-civilisation so this afternoon is our first “game drive” and thus hopefully my first elephant!
• Day 3 – Day in Xakanaxa/Third Bridge area (two game drives).
• Day 4-6 – Game drive to Kwai concession (within the Moremi Game Reserve) and days of game drives and an afternoon mokoro canoe trip.
• Day 7-9 – Game drive to Savuti (within the Chobe National Park) and days of game drives.
• Day 10- Game drive to Chobe River (within the Chobe National Park) and day of game drives.
• Day 11 – Morning game drive, and afternoon boat cruise on Chobe River.
• Day 12 – Game drive to Kasane. Collection from Kasane airport (by road) and transfer to Jackalberry Chobe (we leave the real wilderness and moveable tents behind at this point and will be staying in an actual hotel (its still a tent mind you!)
• Day 13 – Games drives and afternoon boat cruise.
• Day 14 – Kasane to Victoria Falls. Go see the falls. Go back to hotel to dry off (yes, an actual “hotel” – Lokuthula Lodges).
• Day 15 – Flight from Victoria Falls airport to Johannesburg, then:
• Day 16 – Overnight flight back to London. In economy again. Cue the complaining.

Best I can do on Google Maps:

A word on tents. Yes, I am going camping. However, this is not really camping – it makes even Mongolian gers look like camping, and that wasn’t camping either. These are specialist tents (put up by the camp team) that come with beds and ensuite bathrooms. I think I will manage.

Another important part of the planning stage has been clothes related. Usually, this does not require much thought, I take some of my standard clothes/hot country clothes, and I put them in my big yellow rucksack. However, safaris come with specialist clothes. This does not mean like fancy, I am going Big 5 Hunting stuff, it means: (i) no black or blue (which attract tsetse flies); (ii) no bright colours; (iii) no white; and (iv) no animal prints. This effectively leaves me with various shades of sludge: beige sludge, brown sludge, and green sludge. I have effectively purchased a wardrobe of sludge – you may not recognise me in photos!

Due to weight limits, and as I am only going for 2 weeks, I am not even taking the big yellow rucksack and instead will be travelling with my smaller blue one – although note that as this is a non-approved colour I have also purchased the yellow plastic bag for it to go in when travelling. This may help to keep some of the dust off.

So, all in all I am nearly ready. I have done the personal maintenance today (legs waxed, nails painted) and will finish packing tomorrow, before heading off to the airport in the evening. I am officially getting excited now. Oh and don’t worry, I have a whole draft post dedicated to the history of Botswana in case you were concerned this would be a history free holiday. I will also take photos of food (both alive and post cooking) to keep you all happy too…

I am not quite sure when I will be able to post. As you can see from the map above, we will be in pretty remote areas (big test for the eSim perhaps?) On the assumption that it will not work, you may get a full bombardment when I arrive in the hotel in Zimbabwe (it has wifi apparently) so get ready.